MTB: How to unjam the Contact Point Adjustment wheel on SRAM G2 RSC brakes

SRAM’s G2 RSC brakes have two adjusters – one that sets the distance between the bar and the lever, and Contact Point Adjustment that sets where the brakes bite as you pull the lever (circled in red).

This wheel has a habit of jamming – particularly if it’s all the way open or all the way closed.

Unjamming the Contact Point Adjustment wheel

If your wheel jams, a five step solution may work for you.

  1. Flood the wheel with WD-40. WD-40 is not really a lubricant, but it should help dissolve any existing grease etc. and displace any water.
  2. Wait several hours.
  3. Flood the wheel with oil – I used 3-In-One. Wipe away the excess.
  4. Wait several hours.
  5. Use a pair of needle nose pliers – wrapped in rubber or other soft material to protect the brake finish – and gently work the wheel loose.

If it doesn’t want to move, don’t force it. Add more oil and wait some more. Anecdotal suggestions include bleeding the brakes – which is never a bad thing to do anyway. It helps if you understand which way you want to turn the wheel (mine was stuck in the closed position).


After you bleed SRAM brakes you should clean the lever to make sure you don’t have any DOT fluid on them. If you use a chemical cleaner, make sure that it doesn’t get into the Contact Point adjuster, as it will help the wheel jam.

MTB: Do you need an internal cable routing kit?

When I started to build my new bike I thought the answer to this was yes – I watched all the youTube videos and I was sold.

But I couldn’t get one for a reasonable price…

So I tried to do without. And you know what? I found out that I didn’t need one after all. And you might not either.

The challenge is actually pretty straightforward: can you reach the cable cutouts in your frame if your fork is removed?

If you can, then you don’t need an internal cable guide.

If you can reach the cable cutouts by your head tube with your fingers, then you don’t need tools to guide your cables/hoses.

Make sure you feed your cables from the back of the bike to the front of the bike – which is what you have to do with your rear brake and internal dropper cables anyway – and you should be able to relatively easily pull your cables through the frame.